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Perched on the river in Chinatown, far from the backpacker ghetto, this is a fantastic choice for those who really want to see and feel Bangkok. Above the basic rooms sits a wonderful rooftop restaurant with magnificent views and a breeze worth gold in this town.
You’ll find the River View among narrow laneways where the motor of daily life turns
and hums, men weld in scrap metal kingdoms and women ladle out noodle soup.
Birds squawk from wooden cages as cats skulk in shadowed doorways. This is true local living. If you are happy without air-con, the fan rooms are the ones with the wonderful views over the river and the adjacent pagoda, and those without bathrooms have balconies. More expensive rooms have less vista but come with air-con, wooden furnishings and fridge. OK, so the mattresses are crummy and the bathrooms could do with a scrub – get a massage for your back, wear flip-flops in the shower and then
go chill out at the wonderful rooftop restaurant/bar. There you have an exceptional panorama over Chinese dragons and the city sprawl with the Chao Phraya river snaking majestically through it all.
AUTHOR EXPERIENCE The rooftop is a wonderful spot to read or write, sip a beer or eat some inexpensive Thai food – particularly at sunset when Bangkok turns its lights on and becomes a lady of the night. Around the corner on soi Wanit 2, across from the Harbour Department, a little stall called Pet Tun Jao Tha has rice noodles with roasted or stewed duck.
This special little place is deep in the heart of Chinatown, only 5 minutes from the railroad station, and a stone’s throw from the river. It is not particularly comfortable, but the atmosphere of the busy neighborhood and nearby Chinese temples and shops (and, of course, the river views) attract visitors in search of an immersion experience. Part of the appeal is that to get here you’ll have to wander through the neighboring sois, lanes, and labyrinthine alleys. Rooms are nothing special, just guesthouse basic, but some have great views and dining at their rooftop restaurant is an experience in itself.
Note: Be sure to grab a business card at the front desk so you can find your way home once you’ve checked-in (dropping breadcrumbs won’t quite do it).
This family-run hotel is one of the only budget accommodations that overlooks the river. The eighth-floor coffee shop has a great view. The accommodations may remind you of college dorm rooms (though they have far fewer amenities than the average dorm), but they’re clean and comfortable. The staff will go out of its way for you, even staying up to accommodate late flights (someone sleeps downstairs during the night, in case you need something). One drawback is that tuk-tuk drivers sometimes have difficulty finding the place. The easiest way to find it is to head north from the Royal Orchid Sheraton; you can see the guesthouse’s sign pointing down a side street. 45 rooms. Restaurant; no a/c in some rooms, no room TVs. AE.
“A FIVE STAR GUESTHOUSE”
“THERE ARE FEW TIMES ONE CAN GIVE
5-STARS TO A GUESTHOUSE. BUT WHEN
IT IS ABOUT RIVERVIEW GUESTHOUSE
IN BANGKOK IT IS POSSIBLE.”
ERIK ROBERT NAESLUND, SWEDEN,
OUR FRIEND FOR 20 YEARS
“They have something which even the real five star hotels in Bangkok miss; open-air balconies overlooking the river and its fascinating life. The rooms are big and clean, friendly staff, situated in a special area with its early morning markets and just next to the exiting Chinatown. Add to this also the nice roof top restaurant with a beautiful outlook over Bangkok – plus good Thai food – and one can find it happy to be in Bangkok. It is an extra advantage to be able to avoid the car queues and instead have an express-boat stop just nearby, at Harbor Department.
This place is full of good things. One more is the very cheap prices – like 10 Euro for a double room with balcony, fan + big shower room and toilet. I found this place 15 years ago and have lived there as many times and always been happy there.”